Odisha vs. Gujarat vs. Telangana Ikat: What Makes Each Unique?

The term Ikat has probably been introduced to you if you are a lover of beautiful fabrics. What actually is Ikat? In a nutshell, it is a specific method of dyeing threads before weaving them into the fabric. The term is derived from the Malay word mengikat, which translates to “to bind” or “to tie” (the procedure is also referred to as ikatan). By tightly binding very small and exact parts of the thread before dipping them in the dye, the weaver "resists" the color and thus the pattern is produced. Unbelievably, the moment the threads get woven, the pattern leaps into sight!

This artwork is done in India, and the states producing it mostly are Odisha, Gujarat, and Telangana. While all of them employ this resist-dyeing technique, their ikat silk sarees and ikat handloom sarees are, nevertheless, extremely different and unique. Let us see their features one by one.

Odisha Ikat: The Poetry on the Loom

The studio in Odisha known for its work is 'Bandha' (which means 'to tie' too).

• Look & Feel: Odisha ikat is characterized by its slightly 'feathery' or 'blurry' edges.The designs are more fluid and look like they are gently curving.

• Motifs: The patterns are heavily inspired by nature, mythology, and the state's temple culture. You will often see motifs like:

• Conch Shells (Shankha)

• Chakra (Wheel)

• Animals (like elephants and deer)

• Flowers (like the Lotus)

• Colors: The Lord Jagannath temple's rich, vibrant colors are primarily used for dyeing, like red, black, yellow, and white.

• Technique: The artisans rely on the single ikat method, basically, where the warp or the weft, only the vertical or horizontal threads are tied-dyed respectively, prior to weaving.

Gujarat Ikat: The Double Ikat Masterpiece

Ikat of Gujarat has gained worldwide fame and is popularly called 'Patola'.

• Look & Feel: Patola represents the peak of Ikat weaving. The designs are surprisingly precise and clear-cut. One of the most wonderful features of this fabric is that the design is absolutely the same on both sides of the cloth!

• Motifs: Famous for intricate geometric designs (like diamonds), moreover, fabulous decorations of:

• Parrots

• Dancing figures

• Vibrant flowers

• Technique: The Patola saree represents a true double ikat saree. It comprises binding and dyeing both vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft) threads before weaving. This is an extremely laborious and lengthy process, which results in the sarees being very costly and cherished as an inheritance.

Telangana Ikat: Bold Geometry of Pochampally

The fabric of Telangana, resembling Nalgonda district (especially Bhoodan Pochampally), carries a modern artistic dimension.

• Look & Feel: The Pochampally style (as well as the double ikat technique) has been recognized for its bright, sharp-cut, and neat geometric patterns.

• Motifs: It mostly attributes large, prominent geometric shapes like:

• Diamonds

• Squares

• Abstract patterns

• Sometimes, modern, simplified nature motifs.

• Colors: Dark, powerful, and contrasting colors applied to the geometric patterns are making them even more pronounced, which usually contain deep blues, reds, and blacks.

• Fabric: The silk of Patola from Gujarat is 100% pure silk, whereas the artisans of Telangana in their ikat fabric production use a combination of cotton, silk, and silk-cotton.
  

The Magic of Ikat: A Simple Summary

The next time you come across a magnificent ikat saree, you will easily identify the dissimilarity. It is not just a fabric you are displaying. But you witness the deliberate, mathematical skill of the weavers who have kept the ancient craft of ikatan alive for generations and who, through the threads of their state, are each telling a different story.