Every region in Odisha tells its story through the loom — but the one that stands quietly elegant among them all is Nuapatna Ikat, known locally as the Khandua. Rooted in the serene village of Nuapatna, this weave is not just a textile but a chapter of Odisha’s living heritage, defined by devotion, precision, and artistry that dates back centuries.
A Heritage Woven with Devotion
Unlike its cousin, the vibrant Sambalpuri Ikat, Nuapatna Ikat leans towards subtlety and symbolism. Traditionally, the Khandua saree was woven as an offering to Lord Jagannath in Puri — using the sacred colour “Kesariya” (deep reddish-orange) and motifs inspired by temple iconography. Even today, the weavers of Nuapatna carry this legacy, crafting sarees that feel both spiritual and luxurious.
Every thread of a Nuapatna saree is pre-dyed before weaving, using the Bandha technique, a hallmark of Odisha’s Ikat art. But what sets it apart is its fineness — the patterns are tighter, the silk softer, and the texture smoother than other Ikats from the region.
How to Identify a Nuapatna Saree
For anyone discovering Odisha’s Ikat landscape for the first time, here’s how you can tell a Nuapatna (or Khandua) saree apart from others:
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The Fabric:
Most Nuapatna sarees are woven with pure mulberry silk or fine cotton. The silk version — known as Khandua Pata — feels feather-light yet crisp, unlike the heavier Sambalpuri silks. -
The Color Palette:
The signature hues are reddish-orange, maroon, and cream, often paired with temple-inspired borders in white or gold tones. Unlike Sambalpuri Ikats that burst with contrasting colors, Nuapatna maintains harmony and restraint. -
The Borders and Motifs:
Look for temple borders (deuli patterns) and motifs like conch shells, wheels, fish, and elephants. These symbols draw from Odisha’s sacred architecture and mythology. -
The Weaving Precision:
A true Nuapatna saree will have sharp-edged motifs that align seamlessly even across color changes — a mark of the weaver’s skill.
Unlike printed imitations, the patterns in handwoven Nuapatna Ikat are identical on both sides of the fabric. -
The Pallu:
The pallu often features intricate Bandha designs, sometimes with Gita Govinda verses woven into the silk — an artistry unique to this region.
Beyond Aesthetics: The Cultural Essence
Owning a Nuapatna Ikat is not just about having a saree; it’s about carrying a piece of Odisha’s soul. Each saree takes weeks — sometimes months — to complete, depending on the complexity of the pattern. The patience, the rhythm of the loom, and the meditative art of tying and dyeing reflect a devotion that transcends fashion.
Today, modern interpretations of Nuapatna Ikat have found their way into wedding trousseaus and festive wardrobes across India. They pair beautifully with minimal gold jewellery or oxidized silver, making them versatile for both heritage and contemporary settings.
The Nuapatna Ikat saree is not just a festive drape — it’s a bridge between the divine and the everyday, between Odisha’s past and your present. In its calm palette and precise craftsmanship lies a quiet power — the kind that doesn’t shout for attention, yet leaves an unforgettable impression.
